RotorX Raiju (RX155) FPV Micro Hex build log!

Here is the build log for a RotorX Raiju (RX155) FPV 155mm Micro Hex.  You can find more info about it on RotorX Racing’s website.  This build log followed RotorX’s provided guide on the Lift RC website found here.

Frame and props arrived!

For this build I’m using Airbot mini 18a “Bearhug” ESCs .  Since all my parts haven’t arrived yet and I couldn’t wait to get started I went ahead and prepared the ESCs to the frame.

First I mocked and placed the ESCs with double sided tape:

I then soldered all the positive wires to the ESCs in a daisy chain fashion as per the guide:

Next I soldered the ground wires and JST lead for the battery:

Just received a package from the UPS man…!

Geez this thing is beautiful!

When I received the motors I was surprised at how small they are!  Unfortunately I did not order the RotorX motors because they were out of stock with no restock date i could find and due to my impatience and coming to the last week of my “staycation” from work I wanted to complete this build before shelving it for however long.  So I opted for Eachine 1104 4000kv motors from Banggood.  Supposedly Eachine, DYS and another company I believe RCTimer, got a hold of RotorX’s motor plans and have begun cloning them.  :/  Its highly unfortunate but like many other products in this hobby RotorX’s fell victim too.  There is talk in the Raiju thread on that RotorX is coming out with a new improved version of the motors…  Once those start getting stocked and get good reviews, I’ll probably upgrade.  I’m a sucker for improving.  lol

From left to right: Cobra 2204 2300kv, DYS 1306 3100kv and the tiny Eachine 1104 4000kv!

When soldering the motors to the ESCs I did have to go through some wire switching around on first power up since some were not rotating the correct way.

And here is the flight controller (FC) and Micro Minim OSD I’ll be using.  Both from

After soldering on the signal and ground wires to each ESC, I routed them this way.

I soldered each ESC signal wire to its respective wire on the connector of the FC.

And I’m not sure how common or acceptable it is to combine all the ESC ground wires together but i gave it a shot.  Seems to be working okay right now.

I then took that common ground and connected it via another wire to the FC.

This is the FPV cam I’ll be using.  I purchased it from

And then in my excitement in seeing the end of this build coming close I didn’t take photos of my FPV cam, 5v Pololu step-down or MiniM OSD soldering!  I’m sorry!  :/  I can go back and update this post with those if anyone is interested.  But here is a photo of all things connected! 😀  I mainly referred to the build guide provided at’s page for the Raiju.

And here is my all up weight’s with the various batteries I have (AUW).  First just the raiju sans the battery.

With a 900mah battery.

Witha Turnigy nanotech 950mah battery.

With a Turing nanotech 850mah battery, which is heavier than the 950 for whatever reason.

And the Zippy 1000mah battery. (It is a couple grams heavier after I added a bit of hot glue to reinforce the new antenna position.

So depending on battery used my thrust ratio varies from 3.08 to 3.19 to 1.  Based on Eachine’s technical data for this motor showing 118g of pull on 3S at 3.5 amps and 44.4k rpm’s.

And the finished product!

And if you’re curious what the underside looks like completed.

Another thing I like about this build beside how awesome it looks is the Minim OSD.  I normally use Power OSD’s but for a build this size it didn’t seem logical.  I recently discovered I can do PID tuning via OSD in my goggles with the Minim!!! How awesome is that!

My only concern is that withe the ESC wires semi exposed underneath the Raiju it may be a delicate multi rotor.  We’ll see how it holds up during future fly’s.  This was my most challenging build to date. But it looks so awesome!

Videos to come!

6 thoughts on “RotorX Raiju (RX155) FPV Micro Hex build log!

  1. This was a great write up 🙂 I loved the idea of the Ground shared cables! Makes for an even cleaner underside. In terms of flashing your escs (or if you wanted to reverse them), how do you handle that now?

    But yeah, feel free to add more information 🙂 I’m interested in how you fitted on your D4R with its casing still on too – did you make use of the battery monitoring for example?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thank you much Brett for the feedback! I didn’t flash these ESCs. So for motor rotation, the ones that were not rotating the correct way I just swapped two of the three motor wires and re soldered.
      I also ended up removing the D4Rii case and heat shrinking it. The case made the canopy come very close to the props so I just removed it, heat shrinked it ut cut a section of shrink out for the led light.
      I did not make use of battery monitoring yet… I figured as long as I can see it in my goggles I’ll be fine. But I did add a buzzer which I can add photos of layer. So my AUW increased a bit. And with the buzzer it just occurred to me if I connect a wire from the FC’s vbatt. I can go with battery monitoring through the FC/Cleanflight. 🙂 improvements I’ll make to the Raiju next time I work on it. 😀


    1. Thanks! The cam is okay. It’s a lot wider angle then I’m use to with HS1177’s but this is the only cam I could find this small and light for my Raiju.
      It’s still fly-able, just a very wide angle. Seems like you’re going faster than you are.


      1. That is one of the other popular cams I’ve seen others using on the RotorX Raiju and Atom. I haven’t personally used it but others seem to enjoy it just fine.


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